A Coast to Coast Cycle Ride made by one Super Hero, Graham Kidd.
Day 1. Morecambe - Beezley
On Friday 31st August 2001, Graham set off on his Raleigh Chloe bike from Morecambe. His three older siblings have all completed similar rides and so young four of four had a lot to live up too. The route selected was the best of the ones that the brother and sisters had completed, and the bike was modified with straight handlebars. It was usually kept in top gear (The smallest on the block) although Dad changed gears very occasionally. Two sleeping bags, a tent and money were the main items of luggage, with a small toolkit; cameras spare underwear, light clothes, kagools, cycle helmet cameras and maps making up the remainder of the payload. The whole lot went into a back pannier and a handlebar bag, apart from the tent, which conveniently sat on the top of the pannier.
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After the usual idiosyncrasies of privatised rail travel we finally got into Morecambe about 3:30 P.M. (there are trains direct to Morecambe from Leeds, and I would recommend you should sacrifice time for convenience and make as few changes as possible). The Donkeys and the sea were a must do and see respectively, along with a hot dog and a new pair of sunglasses, as modelled in this photo. The Start of the cycle route is 400 meters from the sea front, right next to the station, and the route itself is FANTASTIC. Ten miles of well surfaced, direct, flat, traffic free cycling. The start speed was 8 kph, but the route gives plenty of time for confidence to grow and speed to develop. |
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There are loads of places to stop along the river Lune and so many people walking, cycling, wheelchairing, dossing and generally using this route you wonder why every town in the country hasn't got one. The people who made this route deserve medals. This picture is two kilometres east of Lancaster, and it's by Jaz. Jaz, I've forgot your dog's name, what is it? There is 5 kilometres of bad road in terms of traffic once the cycle route has finished near Caton, but it's worth it. It might be an idea to use pavement sharing (are you listening councillors) as I didn't see a single pedestrian along that section. |
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Once off the main road and on to Ingleton, the route is good, and right from Crook of Lune the mountain of Ingleborough makes an impressive target, getting slightly larger and more distinct at the brow of each hill. Ingleton is a sweet village, with lots to do and buy, fish and chips, a youth hostel etc. Graham made the climb up Beezley hill after loading up with provisions, and we camped near the top Day 2. We were off just after ten, with the top of the ride ahead of us. The Beezley road is brilliant, apart from the cattle grids, with Twistleton Scar on the left, and Ingleborough and the river Greta on the Left. |
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From Chapel le Dale to Ribblehead could be quieter, but it's nice to see Whernside and the Viaduct. The Inn at Ribblehead makes a natural stop, if only to use the Loo with a view. (It doesn't open 'till 11a.m. though). The climb up to Widdale head is remarkably well graded, and though long, we managed it with a rest at a stream. All of a sudden, within 24 hours of setting off your at 437 meters and it's all downhill. It's quite poignant to be at the top, realise that it's goodbye to Ingleborough, The Lune Valley and the West coast, and ahead it's Wensleydale and the river Ure spilling out into North Yorkshire, which is practically home. |
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The ride from Widdale Head is mind blowing. Never ridiculously steep, it is nevertheless long, fast and impressive. We seemed to be steady at about 30 kph, and Graham was the most sensible, judicious user of the road imaginable. The only thing to look out for is the left turn that takes you to Appersett about 7 km from the top. Down this road you will pass underneath a disused (for the time being) railway bridge. We stopped to look at the stream, which was clear, full of fish and great to explore. |
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Widdale Beck joins the river Ure, and it's a long, long undulating ride down Wensleydale (Why is it not called Uredale? All the others valleys are named after rivers, like Airedale, Wharfedale, Swaledale). At the heart of the Yorkshire Dales this route is superb, on the north side of the river. There are steep little climbs here and there, but they are over in minutes, and the sections where you can just coast are innumerable. The first stop is at Hardraw, where you pay at the pub for a short walk up to Hardraw Force, a beautiful waterfall that has a claim to be the highest single drop in England. Askrigg may be the most picturesque of the little villages on this part of the route, but when are motorists going to realise that some people affected by their behaviour are not compensated adequately? Aysgarth Falls, Castle Bolton, Wensley, Leyburn and Middleham are all on or near the route. You could spend a week doing this section, but we crossed the Ure for the last time at Ulshaw near to our campsite, after getting the vittles in at Middleham. |
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How come all the footpaths are closed for foot and mouth yet 14 stables in Middleham send their horses to several different racecourses each day, so they can mix with horses from every other rural area in England (and abroad)? The ways of country folk often puzzle me.
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Day Three Bad navigation, bad sign posting and a blown out tyre on top of the Howardian Hills. This whole route is totally cool. Starting with a few undulations, either downhill or flat through quiet lanes and roads, ending up in the Howardian Hills, neglected by the tourist but better for it. The fun starts in the Afternoon with the climb into Husthwaite (You can see the White Horse near Sutton Bank in the picture). On top of the Hills you can see clear to the Power stations near the M 62, and if anybody wants to take a mirror up to Emley moor or Pen y Ghent I bet you see those too. We had the pleasure of walking the last eight miles into Hovingham, along straight roads through much forest. |
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Day 4 The Sedgewick Guest house, Hovingham , was a welcome stop for us. Thanks Fred. It enabled me to find a tyre and tube in Kirkby Moorside, and filled us up for the trip to Flamingo Land, which took exactly one hour for the eighteen kilometres. The first bits boring and busy, but the last 10 k are a pleasure.From Flamingo land the A 169 is horrible, but it's only 4 k to the best section of the whole journey, through the Marishes, heading straight towards Scarborough with the sun and wind at your back (usually), dead flat and ten kilometres. Food from Costcutter at Snainton and the road to Scarborough. Can you believe some Jerk shouted to us "Ride on the pavement" Like I don't pay road tax? |
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Still, you're in the borough of Scarborough, and they have their priorities when it comes to transport. A Vital turn is the left at West Ayton, after the bridge, which takes you up Forge Valley. This road to Scarborough is not signposted (Thank god) and is a pleasurable, if undulating, finish. Keep your eyes on the map. We could see the sea from which it was gentle pedalling and coasting through the suburbs of Scarborough to the North Bay. We love Scarborough, but we were too late for the best Waffles in the world and a donkey ride. |
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Of all the four children, Graham, perhaps because he is the youngest, seemed the least likely candidate to complete a c2c bike ride. Perhaps I was more experienced as a guide and a father, perhaps it's because I knew the route, but without doubt he completed it with the least hassle and most consummate expertise. I would say that the above factors were influential, but the major contributor was the man himself, who was constantly a boon companion, never complaining or crying (unlike me), never falling off apart from when stationary, generally smelling the roses and doing precisely what was asked of him. Starting out as a nervous and wobbly novice his strength, confidence and endurance rocketed in those four days. I would recommend this route to anybody with children (But let me know how you get on and PLEASE BE CAREFULL)
Contact me Steve Kidd
c2c Home Page For downloadable maps and route instructions
Cycling home page Cycle route central!
